FAQ- Force Technical Info and Troubleshooting Guide
F1 Force Troubleshooting Guide
When troubleshooting your Field One Paintball marker, make sure to always point your barrel in a safe direction and remove paintballs and air before starting ANY work on your marker. Wear the proper eye and face protection and ensure that all people within range are wearing the proper eye and face protection. Only test your marker in a safe area and make sure the marker is completely degassed and empty of paintballs before storing the marker.
CLEAN: Work on a clean surface and a clean tray with clean grease and a clean tool.
Do not apply loctite to any area after Factory assembly.
Do not apply aftermarket screws (ie: blackout kit) to the Force without confirming that it is a direct replacement screw with the same dimensions and specs.
Do not overtighten any assembly- consult “tightness” guidelines below:
For our purposes, we will describe tightness in 3 levels: Tool Tight, Hand Tight, Snug. Most applications make sense to use “hand tight”. If not sure, ask….
Tool Tight- tighten with a tool on one side and a good hand grip on the other, this should be tight, but removable with tools. A small “snap” as you loosen is ok, but the screw or part should be able to be removed by a normal human with a tool without damaging the part (ie: engine detaining pin, asa mounting screws, back block screws, feedneck lever drum and bolt)
Hand Tight- screwed together with hands or a tool with minimal torque. Turn the screw or part until it stops and apply a slight amount of torque to finish it. The part should be tight enough to not vibrate apart but should be easily removable (ie: engine halves, feedneck mounting screws, grip frame mounting screws, eye cover screws, board screws)
Snug- connected but not torqued- tight enough where there is no more movement of the part but very easy to unscrew with hands (ie: barrel parts, feedneck adjuster knob, grip panel screws, battery door terminal screws)
Use a ball end tool with the minimum amount of angle necessary whenever you have to tighten screws from an angle.
GREASE: Use Field One Paintball Grease or Dow 33 on your Field One Marker. Grease should be applied to the o-ring groove before installation as well as the o-ring once installed. A thin layer of grease should also be applied to the mating surface for all dynamic o-rings. Dynamic o-rings should get more grease than static o-rings. Use a minimal amount of grease or oil on the bolt o-rings. A thin layer of grease that is well spread around an area is more effective than a big glob of grease in one spot. Do not use petroleum based lubricants or any lubricants that can swell o-rings.
Force General Use
Marker will not turn on (OLED screen will not light up):
Change AA battery or recharge Force LiPo battery.
Ensure the power selector switch on the Force Main Board is in the correct position for the power source you intend to use.
Make sure all ribbon cables are connected the correct way and fully inserted into the proper connector. (ie: battery board to bridge board for AA power source)
Do not use Lithium AA batteries or rechargeable AA batteries in your Force. Use Name Brand Alkaline AA batteries in your Force. (ie: Energizer, Duracel)
Marker will not shoot (or dry fire):
Check to make sure the marker is turned on and the ASA knob is fully turned on to gas the marker up and there is air in the tank. The ASA knob should be turned clockwise until it stops to activate the pin on your air tank.
Check eye function on OLED screen- test with a “force shot” (hold trigger down for 1 second to “force shot”). Turn off the eyes and pull the trigger once to test fire. Point the marker in a safe direction whenever testing the marker.
If the marker is aired up and pulling the trigger does not fire the marker or cause the micro switch or the solenoid to “click”, you may have to readjust your trigger set screws as the activation adjustment screw may be too far out of adjustment and will not activate the microswitch or allow the microswitch to reset. Be careful when adjusting the activation point adjustment screw as adjusting this in too far may crush the micro switch. If your trigger adjustment screws feel very loose in the trigger, you may need to add a small (very small) amount of liquid threadlocker (removeable type only!!) to the threads to make sure the screws do not vibrate free while operating.
Try adjusting the HPR (velocity screw) on the bottom of the ASA to pressurize the marker. Do not turn the HPR adjustment screw more than 1 complete turn without having a chronograph for testing. If this adjustment does not solve the issue, turn the HPR adjustment screw back to its original setting.
Ensure the solenoid is plugged in at the bottom of the Force Main Board in the grip frame.
If none of these steps have solved your issue, please consult with an F1 technician.
Marker is breaking paint:
Check the barrel bore size to paint size with a handful of the paint you are shooting. Each paintball should move freely through the barrel bore. A snug fit will give the marker greater air efficiency but will increase the chance of breaking a ball. A looser fit will decrease the chance of breaking paint if the paintballs are not consistently round or consistent size.
If the paint you are shooting is extremely fragile, check your loader to make sure it is operating optimally and not crushing paintballs in the breech as it force feeds paintballs to the marker.
Make sure your eyes are ON and functioning. You can check eye function on the OLED screen. An empty breech will show as 2 empty OO on the OLED screen. A full breech will show as 2 filled in circles on the OLED screen. An eye fault will show as 2 XX on the OLED screen with the word ERR at the top of the screen.
If the screen shows an eye fault (ERR XX), remove the eye covers and clean the eye boards (sensors and pin connector pads), detents and eye port area. Make sure there is not moisture, dirt, grease or paint blocking the eye ports or on the eye boards. Use a soft cloth on these components. Do not use water.
Make sure your rubber ball detents (2) are in place and in good shape. If a ball detent looks worn, replace it. Good ball detents should extend between 1/16th and 1/8th of an inch into the breech on each side. Make sure the breech and detents are clear of paint and debris.
Test the fragility of your paint with a shoulder high “drop test” onto a flat hard surface like concrete or asphalt. If many of the balls break in the drop test, you are dealing with some very fragile paint. Try a different brand or grade of paint, make sure to re-size the barrel bore to the paint you will shoot. It is possible that the paintballs you are shooting are too fragile or inconsistent in size or roundness.
Marker is inconsistent over the chronograph:
Go to the chrono station to test your marker. Chronograph consistency depends on many factors, most important is the consistency of the paintballs in size and roundness and the fit of the paintball in the barrel bore.
Make sure the barrel and breech are free from paint/moisture/debris.
Re-size your paint and use the proper barrel bore. Test with another brand or grade of paintballs if available.
De-gas your marker and remove the engine to perform normal engine maintenance. Make sure to apply a small amount of grease to the ram shaft, ram o-ring and the tip of the reduction shaft. Re-install engine and test the marker.
Grease your HPR Piston o-ring (014) which is the larger o-ring on the blue piston inside the HPR Piston cavity of the grip frame. Make sure this area is clean and apply a fresh coating of grease to the orings and the cavity that houses the piston and the HPR assembly. You will have to remove the ASA to reach this part. While you have the ASA and HPR removed, add a small amount of grease to the 008 o-ring inside the Reg Seat Housing.
If the marker registers a “first shot HOT” (higher velocity than the rest of the shots in a series), you may have to clean/rebuild a portion of the HPR and re-grease the assembly.
Tech tips by area:
ASA/Rhino Regulator HPR-
If experiencing a leak from the ASA knob, try replacing the two o-rings in the main seal. These sizes are 005 and 011. A generous amount of grease should be applied to these o-rings and their mating surfaces.
If experiencing a leak from the velocity adjustment hole on the bottom of the ASA, try replacing the lower 1x12mm o-ring on the outside of the brass regulator housing or try replacing the 011 o-ring located inside the brass regulator housing (lower groove).
If experiencing a leak from the small bleed hole at the bottom rear of the grip frame and it is accompanied by a “hot shot” try replacing the 008 o-ring located inside the stainless steel reg adjustor housing under the c-clip and washer. Make sure to add a generous portion of grease to this o-ring when reinstalling. Make sure the c-clip is in place in the groove before re-installing the regulator and ASA.
If experiencing a leak from the small bleed hole at the bottom rear of the grip frame but the velocity remains consistent, try replacing the 012 o-ring located inside the brass regulator housing (upper groove). This o-ring and groove should be well greased. When screwing the stainless steel adjustor into the brass reg housing, turn slowly and if met with resistance, back out and try again- this will prevent clipping the 012 o-ring during assembly.
If air is trapped in the marker when the knob is turned to the OFF position, the downstream purge valve may need maintenance. Usually a drop of oil on top of the purge valve rubber ball will get the system working again. The purge valve rubber ball is located in the top of the ASA body where the brass purge valve enters when joining the ASA and grip frame. If your Force does not have a brass purge valve in the bottom of the grip frame or a filter in the ASA, there is an upgrade available from Field One Paintball- please contact the Field One Service Center.
If your marker is experiencing extremely high velocity and is not adjustable within a safe chronograph speed, the reg seat that is housed in the bottom of the stainless steel reg adjuster housing may need to be cleaned or replaced.
In most cases, you will not need to remove the bolt from the ram to perform routine maintenance. If you need to access the shutoff o-rings or internal volume chamber o-rings, you can remove the bolt from the ram by using a 7/32 allen wrench in the back of the ram and gripping the bolt with a clean microfiber to untwist. If you are struggling to disassemble these two components, you may want to grip the bolt using a rubber reg cover or rubber glove for a better grip. If you are still struggling to remove the bolt from the ram, you can grip the bolt with a wrench or vice grips but make sure to use a sturdy cushion or strap between the wrench jaws so you do not mar the surface of the bolt. Never grab the bolt by the stem as this is a sealing surface.
If you are experiencing a leak in the breech of the marker, de-gas the marker and remove the engine. Regrease or replace the 020 o-ring at the front of the volume chamber. If the leak persists after changing out the 020 o-ring, change out the 110 u-cup inside the front of the volume chamber. The opening of the 110 U-Cup should point rearward after you install it. Apply a small amount of grease to the u-cup and bolt stem when re-assembling.
If you are experiencing a leak at the rear of engine (back cap area), de-gas and remove the engine and uninstall the back cap by unscrewing the engine detaining pin to access the back block assembly. Remove the 2 back block screws and carefully separate the back block from the engine. Be careful not to lose any parts of the gas interlock assembly. Once you have separated the back block from the ram housing, you can access the 2 small (black) pistons and regrease/change out the 1x3mm o-rings on each piston. Make sure to regrease these piston o-rings before reassembly. The back block mounting screws should be tool tight when putting the assembly back together. The engine detaining pin must be tool tight (very tight) when reinstalling the back cap to the engine.
The pillow tip insert in the face of the bolt is damaged or missing- The pillow tip insert is made up of 2 parts that should not be separated. The black rubber “pillow” is injection molded over a brass “crown” screw. To replace this part, pull the rubber from the brass crown screw. This will expose the brass crown screw with a 5/64 broach. YOU MUST HEAT THIS BRASS SCREW with a lighter or torch before trying to unscrew it to melt the blue loctite used during factory installation. If you do not melt the blue loctite properly, you will end up breaking the broach off of the screw and will have to use an easy-out bit to remove the broken screw. If the brass crown screw is already broken, you will have to heat the remaining portion to melt the blue loctite and use a flat head screwdriver or easy-out bit to remove the broken screw.
Engine feels sluggish, inconsistent velocity, incomplete cycling….. First, replace the battery and re-test. Second, check paintball sizing to ensure you do not have a bad batch of paint with abnormally large balls or inconsistent shapes.
Third, perform regular engine maintenance with grease and ensure that the engine is assembled properly. Make sure that the bolt is screwed firmly to the ram and that the 2 engine halves are screwed firmly together with your hands.
Fourth, if your engine cycles but does not shoot, replace and regrease the forward 021 o-ring on the ram housing. apply fresh grease to this o-ring and the cavity of the body that the Nucleus Engine will slide into.
Once these steps have been taken, you can reference the Nucleus Engine O-ring Guide below. If you still have an issue after troubleshooting with the o-ring guide, please move to the Solenoid/Manifold section and follow the steps to service your “drive air” o-ring seals.
If a problem persists, please contact the Field One Paintball Service Center.
NUCLEUS ENGINE O-RING GUIDE-
This guide can help you to understand a bit more about how the Nucleus Engine works and troubleshoot an engine o-ring problem if your Force develops a strange symptom. It is important to note that the user should not just rebuild the Nucleus Engine completely if an issue pops up. Routine maintenance, as described on the Nucleus Engine Quick Start Guide should be performed if there is ever a downgrade in performance.
This guide will go o-ring by o-ring in the engine and describe what may happen if the o-ring is compromised (lacking proper lubrication or damaged/worn badly). In “extreme cases” we are describing what you may experience with the marker if the o-ring is missing completely or totally destroyed or the U Cup seal is in facing the wrong direction. The U-Cups in the Nucleus Engine are extremely long lasting and should not be removed/replaced during common maintenance. If you have any questions, please contact the Field One Service Center.
015- outside bolt front- nominal change in performance, extreme cases can cause “blowback” in feed tube which can impede gravity feed and slightly diminish efficiency.
015- outside bolt rear- nominal change in performance, extreme cases can cause “blowback” in feed tube which can impede gravity feed and slightly diminish efficiency.
020- outside volume chamber front- leak in breech area
110 U Cup- inside volume chamber front- leak in breech area
011- inside shutoff front- nominal change, extreme cases can cause “wooshy” feeling shot and loss of efficiency
011 U Cup- inside shutoff front- nominal change, extreme cases can have slight loss of efficiency
011 U Cup- inside shutoff rear- nominal change, extreme cases can have slight loss of efficiency
017- inside volume chamber front- nominal change
017- inside volume chamber rear- nominal change
Ram Extension Bumper- nominal change, extreme cases can cause a “clickier” sounding shot, a missing bumper can cause damage to the engine
1x15mm- not a seal, this o-ring prevents the engine halves from loosening while in use
011 U Cup- back of ram- leak through back cap area, loss of retraction power
009 U Cup- inside ram- nominal change, extreme cases can cause excess venting around back cap and possible loss of efficiency and extension power
1x2mm- rear of ram housing under reduction shaft- nominal change, extreme cases can cause excess venting around back cap and possible loss of efficiency and extension power
Reduction Shaft Seal- nominal change, extreme cases can cause excess venting around back cap and possible loss of efficiency and extension power
1x3mm- gas interlock pistons- leak from back cap area around edges of back block
021- outside volume chamber front- nominal change, extreme cases can cause “wooshy” feeling shot and loss of efficiency
021- outside volume chamber mid and rear (redundancy)- complete failure of both will cause equalization of volume chamber and retraction air which will slow or stop movement
021- outside ram housing front- leak through middle of body/grip frame area, extreme cases will mix retraction and extension air and will cause incomplete cycling of the system. Replace this o-ring if the marker will occasionally cycle but not fire the paintball out of the barrel
021- outside ram housing rear- nominal change, extreme cases can cause excess venting around back cap and possible loss of efficiency and extension power
Retraction Bumper- nominal change, extreme cases can cause a “clickier” sounding shot, a missing bumper can cause damage to the engine
If you are experiencing a leak from the area of the marker where the grip frame attaches to the body (the leak may sound internal), you may have a leak from one of the manifold o-rings. Remove the grip frame from the body. Clean/ regrease or replace the 007 “input air” o-ring and the 005 “retention air” o-ring that sit in the bottom of the body. The “retention air” o-ring is the 005 that sits further forward in the bottom of the body.
If the leak persists, remove the manifolds and solenoid from the grip frame and clean/ regrease or replace the 1x3.5mm o-ring in the grip frame that sits under the red input manifold and the 1x3mm o-ring that sits between the red input manifold and solenoid.
If the leak still persists, replace the “retention air” o-ring (1x3mm) that sits between the black drive manifold and the solenoid.
If you still have a leak in the manifold/solenoid area after replacing these seals, you may need a replacement solenoid- contact the Field One Service Center.
If the marker suddenly stops fully cycling (low velocity or skipping shots) or performance degrades severely over a day of play, perform regular engine maintenance and change the battery. If the issue still persists, use the Nucleus Engine O-ring Guide to troubleshoot. If the issue still persists, remove the manifold and solenoid from the grip frame and clean/ regrease or replace the 1x4.5mm o-ring between the drive manifold (black) and the solenoid and clean/ regrease or replace the 005 “drive air” o-ring that sits further to the rear in the bottom of the body. If all of the above has been done, please contact the Field One Service Center.
If the marker will not turn on by pressing the power button firmly one time, go through these steps to solve the problem:
- Make sure the power source (either AA batteries in the foregrip or the rechargeable LiPo in the grip frame) are connected properly. You can look at the AA battery board inside the foregrip to make sure you have the proper orientation. Make sure the AA batteries are new or the LiPo is fully charged.
- Make sure the power select switch on the Force Main Board is in the correct position for the power source you are trying to use. Flip the switch back and forth once to make sure you are fully in the position you intend to be in.
- Confirm that the OLED screen is working. To safely test the OLED screen on the marker, remove the air source, barrel and loader from the marker. Be sure to remove all paintballs from the breech area. Start by using fresh batteries to eliminate the possibility of a battery failure. Once you have replaced the battery, press and hold the power button for 1 second. If the OLED screen does not light up, you can test to see if the marker is on by blocking and unblocking the eyes and listening for the solenoid click while you pull the trigger. If the eyes are blocked and the solenoid makes a clicking sound when you pull the trigger, then the OLED screen may need to be replaced.
- Check the narrow ribbon connector that runs from the AA battery board to the bridge board. Check the wide ribbon connector that runs from the jumper board to the bridge board. The ribbon connectors should be installed in the proper orientation (blue side towards body) and free from damage.
- Check the pin connectors and pin connector pads on the OLED board, Force Main Board and Jumper Board. The pads should be clean and free from dust or moisture. The pin connectors should look uniform and have solid contact with pads when boards are installed.
- If the marker still has the issue after these steps are taken, contact the Field One Paintball Service Center.
Eye function: the OLED readout will give information about the status of the eyes. If the eyes are showing a fault XX after pulling the trigger with nothing in the breech, try removing the eye covers and cleaning the eye boards. The eye boards and the eye ports in the body should be free from dust, debris, paint or moisture. Make sure the pin connectors and pads on the 4c eye boards and Bridge board are clean and in good shape. If the boards and eye ports are clean and the eyes are still showing a “fault” XX, you may need to replace the eye boards. Contact the Field One Paintball Service Center.
Battery Door (AA battery power source in foregrip): The battery door can be broken if the release broach is turned too hard in either direction. To release the battery door, turn the release broach about ⅛ of a turn following the direction on the battery door. Spring tension should cause the door to pop out and release the batteries. If the door does not pop out after this turn, use the tool in the broach to wiggle the door free. DO NOT continue to force the release broach to turn- doing so will damage the battery door. To put the battery door back in, you do not need a tool, just match up the terminal orientation of the batteries and battery door and push firmly into place. If the release broach in the battery door spins freely without releasing the door and the batteries, it is likely that the release wedges have been damaged. Please contact the Field One Service Center for instructions on how to remove this damaged part. You still have the option of running your LiPo rechargeable even if the AA power source or AA door has been damaged.
The Force comes with factory default settings loaded. Through extensive testing in a multitude of environments and conditions, these settings have been determined to be the optimal settings for long lasting performance and durability. If you encounter a problem with the performance of your marker, please return these settings to factory default and test again.
Here are some hints and tips for non factory setting adjustment:
Dwell- the Force is considered a dwell “insensitive” platform in that, once the minimum dwell has been reached to fully cycle the marker and dump the full volume chamber, raising the dwell will have little to no effect on velocity. This setting will have minimal effect on ROF but does technically reduce/increase the timing of each cycle (electronic) of the marker. The mechanical cycle is generally the slower portion of the cycle which is why the dwell has little effect on ROF. Factory setting is 16. Reducing to 13 or 14 can change the signature of the shot but may lead to inconsistency or first shot drop off.
BIP (ball in place) Delay- This setting is a programmed delay that is adjustable and will help with or eliminate breaking paint in a “breech bounce” scenario. The setting was designed to delay the shot cycle just slightly to reduce the chances of breaking paint as you approach the end of your loader or have a lull in your loading system which can result in a “space” in your ball stack. Factory setting is MidHi. Lowering the setting can give increased max ROF performance but will also increase the chances of breaking a ball in one of the scenarios described above. We do not recommend using this setting on OFF as this will greatly increase the chances of breaking paint in your breech.
Eye Power- This setting is included in the Force program for rare instances when the eyes are having trouble reading a certain type of paintball (generally due to reflectivity, shade or opacity). Factory setting is MidLo. Changing this setting can help if your eyes are having an issue performing with a certain type of paint. This setting should not be changed unless eye maintenance has already been done and testing has been done with different types of paint.
ABS- This setting is more easily explained as “anti bolt stick” or “anti first shot drop”. It is essentially just an add-on value to your dwell setting to ensure that o-ring stiction does not affect the cycle of drive air and produce a low velocity shot after the marker has sat dormant for a certain time. ABS Time is also adjustable. Factory setting is ABS 4 and ABS Time 30s. Because the Force is dwell insensitive, we recommend leaving these at factory settings to eliminate first shot drop symptoms. If factory settings are used and you are experiencing first shot drop, we recommend that you perform routine maintenance on the engine, regulator and batteries before boosting ABS to compensate. Extremely cold weather may be a scenario where increasing your ABS will be helpful.
Custom Ramp Settings- The custom ramp settings that are found in the programming menu are only active if the user chooses “Cust Ramp Capped” as the firing mode. “CUST CAP” will appear on the Force home screen to inform the user that the marker is set to custom ramp settings rather than NXL mode or other… The custom ramp settings will allow the user to manipulate the ramp profile by changing which shot in a series will start ramping, which ROF is required for ramping to start and which ROF is required to maintain ramping.
Field One Paintball/ Force Warranty:
Warranty support and services are available for markers purchased directly from Field One Paintball or from an authorized Field One Paintball Dealer within the warranty term specified below. The owner of the marker is responsible for shipping/transport to and from the Field One Factory Service Center. An RMA# is required for all markers being sent to the Field One Factory Service Center.
Warranty Support and Service for Field One Paintball (F1P) products is provided by factory trained service technicians and F1P Authorized Service Locations. The F1P warranty is valid for one (1) year from purchase date to initial retail purchaser. The warranty is limited to defects in workmanship and materials covering the paintball marker and regulator components. The electronic components and solenoid are warranted for 120 days from purchase date. Electronic components are not covered under warranty if there is evidence of water (moisture) damage or battery corrosion. Disposable/wear parts (Batteries, O-Rings, Bumpers, Seals, etc.) are not warrantied.
This warranty is effective only if the customer is able to provide a valid receipt or proof of purchase that includes the date of purchase, the purchase location (an authorized F1P dealer) and a description of the marker. The warranty is non-transferable. The warranty period starts at the date of purchase. This warranty is limited to repair or replacement of defective parts with the customer responsible for transporting the product to and from the F1P Authorized Service Location. Warranty coverage is authorized at the sole discretion of Field One Paintball factory staff.
This warranty does not cover surface damages (scratches, nicks, machining marks left from the process of production or metal finishing), misuse, normal wear or improper disassembly and reassembly. Attempts made to drill holes or remove metal from external surfaces could degrade the performance and/or safety of the marker and may only be performed with written approval. The only authorized lubricant for the marker is Dow 33 and Field One Paintball Lubricant. Use of any other lubricant could result in reduced performance and invalidation of the F1P warranty. The use of Teflon tape as a sealant for any marker component may internally damage electro-pneumatics. The use of Teflon tape will void your warranty. When installing aftermarket Drop-Forwards, ensure attachment fasteners DO NOT protrude into internal grip assembly. Do not use screws that are not the factory specified length in your marker as this may cause damage to internal parts and void your warranty. When installing aftermarket grips, ensure attachment fasteners DO NOT protrude into internal grip assembly. Do not use Loctite to secure screws or parts on your marker without consulting with a F1P certified tech.
Trigger alteration of any kind may result in serious injury, do NOT attempt to alter the trigger assembly in any way. Use of aftermarket components within the bolt system, trigger or other operational components voids any warranty on the modified assembly and its interacting systems.
Removal of factory anodizing or other finish voids the warranty of any affected component, as tolerances will be affected by such action. F1P strongly discourages use of aftermarket internal components as they may jeopardize the performance and/or safety of your paintball marker.
If you have a question about service or warranty for your marker, please give us a call at (415)324-4050 or email us: email@example.com. We are happy to help and appreciate your support of Field One Paintball.